kogatravel

Katja and Arne's travel stories


1 Comment

Happy August 17th

Today, 3 months after Norway celebrated its national day, Indonesia does the same.
The Dutch held Indonesia since sometime in the 17th century, and the Japanese from 1942-1945. Indonesia declared independence a few days before the Japanese capitulation at the end of WWII. Still, the Dutch held on tight and there were fighting and UN mitigation before they were self governed in 1949.
It’s been a long journey to the stability and peaceful nation Indonesia is to day. The first fair election of government happened in 1999, and Indonesia is now the third heavily populated democracy (253,6 million), and the worlds largest Muslim-majority (87,2 %) country in the world.
It’s easy to get the Muslim part as there are lots of women in hijab, the mosques starts their prayers at 05:00 and there are prayer mats to be seen. At the same time is there a lot more freedom to be had than in a lot of other Muslim governed states. There are no strict rule about alcohol, it seems. In more rural areas all the farmers brew their own wine. And all drink it; women and children included.

Wine quote

And there are more women without hijabs than with, here at Senggigi on Lombok.
We have also learned that there are at least six languages just here on Lombok that hold 3.8 million people. They have a common language for Indonesia to make communication possible, but do not understand the languages between them.
At today’s celebration of independent day, we saw …….(drum roll)……
Nothing!
There have been a few banners showing the national colors of red and white, but nothing more. All stores are open, the sales people at the beach carry on, the restaurants serve their food and all is normal. It was a little more people than normal on the beach this evening. Possible they got the afternoon of work or it may be normal for a Sunday.
And it looks like a pig sty after them. It is unbearable to see how the locals just throw garbage down around them. Seconds before these last lines are written a man at the neighboring table uses a napkin and just throws it on the floor. We saw it in the mountains, we see it in the streets and on the beach. OK, Indonesia is a developing country but one would think that keeping it decent around one self was more natural than this.

Another cultural thing that still baffles me is the use of “self whitening creams”. Where we westerners hold the sun brown skin in high esteem for both women and men, several of the Asian countries are into “the whiter the better”. So we have to be constantly aware when buying after sun lotion, so not to end up with one that takes away all those hours at the beach during the night.

But first, let me take a selfie:

bilde (1)
And the obligatory sunset picture. As the beach we use is facing the west

Sunset @ Senggigi beach

Sunset @ Senggigi beach

And finally as we have posted few food pictures do we present: Grilled snapper fillet with fried rice and Lombok spicy sauce.

20140817-191315-69195409.jpg

 


1 Comment

Mt. Rinjani – day 3 & 4

The third day started after about 12 hours of sleep. We crashed hard last night after both the summit trek and the trek down to the crater lake.
Down here at the lake it is a lot of locals. It turns out that this is an important site for celebrating the upcoming national day 17th of August. Lots and lots of people gathers here to fish in the lake and just chill out. Mostly men, though.

Locals at the crater

Locals at the crater

We were told that the last president had flown up in a helicopter and set out 2000 fish in the lake. I’m not sure how long they will last with all this people around. There were many there when we left, but according to our guide it will be thousands upon thousands from all over Lombok there this next Sunday.
As every day we got a healthy breakfast and set about for our trek. We were to go up the crater on the other side and down maybe an hour on the other side. We did so much more…

Steep climbing

Steep climbing

More steep climbing

More steep climbing

The climb up the crater is from 2000-2600 meters and much of it is pretty straight up. We spent 2 hours on the climb and came to the crater rim to a spectacular view. All pictures promoting Rinjani is basically taken from this point. With a great view of the lake, the active inner volcano and the Rinjani summit itself.

Panorama from the crater rim

Panorama from the crater rim

The we started on the trek downhill. “Maybe down to waterfall”, said our guide Aman. We agreed and started walking – for another 6 hours. On the last part of the trek I was walking on pure willpower. With 22 out of the last 54 hours spent on walking, mostly climbs or descents, my legs were shaking, blisters appeared, toes and toenails were begging for mercy and I smelled like your average local hobo.

Local hobo smell coming your way

Local hobo smell coming your way

But on and on we went. Down through thick jungle and slippery slopes. We saw both grey and black monkeys on the way. And finally, there was the waterfall. After 8,5 hours of walking did we see the yellow tent.

But it just got better. The waterfall is not just for pretty pictures, it’s for showering. So we got undressed, got in and under and washed so much of the filth, dust, smell and grit away. It was heavenly! As the pictures show it is a rather large drop and the pressure is high. It holds about 17-18 centigrade and thereby more than I would have thought.

The waterfall

The waterfall

Into the waterfall

Into the waterfall

Showering in the waterfall

Showering in the waterfall

Dinner, brush teeth, sleep.

Day 4 started out at 7:30 where we walked the last 30 minutes to Johns hotel. Just enough to claim a fourth day of trekking. 🙂
From there we were taken to our new hotel in Senggigi further south west on the island. Here we have already booked the ferry back to
Bali, gotten a haircut and leg wax (guess who did what?) and we both had a massage. The calves and front of thighs hurt like a ________ (fill In blank) but I guess it will be worse tomorrow.

 

All in all it’s been a great adventure. We can highly recommend both the Rinjani trek and Johns Adventure, but there are some does and don’ts:
– Bring trekking shoes. You will have a better time, and you will not ruin your shoes.
– Bring warm cloths. It is freezing on the top (literary). Would you do shorts in that temp and heavy wind back home?
– Drink enough. We brought a little extra water, but just make sure you keep hydrated. We have camelback that let’s us take small sips easily. We used these every 15 min to keep the intake at a good level. It also helped us break down every trek into smaller parts.
– Bring a head torch. If you can get the head mounted torch. You need both hands to the summit, or to the toilet tent at night.
– Eat. Whatever you are served by your porter, eat it. You need the fuel.
– Bring some extra snack you like and that will give you energy. Chocolate, nuts, bars… As long as it gives you that little kick.
-Stay positive. When walking upwards it’s easy to let theirs wander to negative places. Look at where you will place your feet next and the top will be conquered.

Sunset on the first ridge

Sunset on the first ridge

We talked a lot about the feeling of achievement we got from this. Knowing we can take this kind of “heat” straight on makes us sure we will enjoy a lot of other treks this upcoming year.
Right now it’s Bintang time! Cheers!

Bintang time

Bintang time


2 Comments

Mt. Rinjani day 2

Ai ai ai! After dinner yesterday we fell asleep around 19:00. We were dead tired from the days climb and went out like babies.
The sleep was so and so all the time people were passing 20 cm from our head and talking in all sorts of languages. But there is no rest for the wicked and 01:58 the alarm went off. We got tea and crackers for a light breakfast. What we achieved on that fuel is beyond our comprehension.
The trek up to the summit on 3726 meters starts easy enough. With a trek through the camp that was much bigger than we knew. But the steep climb came soon enough. With basically just gravel under foot, you take two steps forward and one step back (who remember Paula Abdul?). It is extremely tiresome! We are both pretty fit but this trek took all we got. We walked with head torches and all we saw was the meter and a half ahead of us. Aman had put a blinking light on his backpack and it guides us along. He was clear that we needed to pass some of the slower people as they would hold us back when the track narrowed further up.
We just looked down, took one step –  collected one win. Another step, another win. Man, this was hard. I’m sort of out of words to describe it, and that is something that rarely happens.

Katja & Aman - dressed for the cold

Katja & Aman – dressed for the cold

On top of the hardship of the trek came the cold. We were dressed in windbreakers, long sleeved technical underwear, wool sweatshirt, hats and gloves. We were freezing cold! When we finally arrived at the summit we were shaking. We took out all other clothes from the backpack and put them on. Still we were not getting warm. We managed to get the mandatory picture with the sign, though. Done by pure willpower and a guide who took his gloves of long enough to take the picture.

Rinjani Summit 3726 meters

Rinjani Summit 3726 meters

We moved down 50-60 meters to find shelter for the howling wind together with a lot of others. We had done good and was 45 minutes early for the sunset. So we had some time to kill in the cold dark night. Aman, our magical guide had brought hot tea, a sleeping bag and crackers. We all huddled together under the bag, rubbing each other for warmth and focusing on all the lights coming up the hill. All the people we knew would not make it to sunrise… When we saw how far they still had to go.
Finally! 6:15 the sun came up. There were cheers on the mountain top from people who had conquered both themselves and the mountain. Personally I had tears in my eyes and can straight up say I have never worked so hard for seeing the sun rise. It was beautiful!

IMG_5974

The sunrise on Mt. Rinjani

And immediately we started on the decent. In the same gravel as we struggled up we slipped and slided back down. This is dry season and the dust was just unbearable. So many people, so much dust! And for the people still on their way up we must have made their day much harder. We got down, got a big breakfast, slept for 30 min- got back up, packed the bags and started the days second trek.
Straight down into the crater down to the lake. Almost uneventful, but three more hours downhill took its toll. We saw grey monkeys.

Halfway down to the crater

Halfway down to the crater

Panorama view of the crater

Panorama view of the crater

But behold! In the crater there are hot springs that hold about 40 degrees. We got in, stayed awhile and got out fresher than before. It was heavenly.

Hot springs in the crater

Hot springs in the crater

The difference on our 4 day/3 nights and the one shorter is they do the climb this afternoon that we do tomorrow. We are presently chilling by the lake in the crater. Have had a nice nap, and are now sipping tea with a great view. But Katja has gotten blister on both heals today and have pain in some toes also. Right now she is uncertain if she will live to tell this story.
Worth mentioning are our porters as well. They started out with 40 kg packs and move faster in flip-flops than we do in trekking boots. Today they went past us twice. And when we came to the break in the trek they already had the lunch ready. And now they are preparing dinner. Aleks and Dama (formerly known as “the other guy”) are great chefs, puts the clients first and are all smile and good spirit. We have been served banana pancakes, vegetable soup, fried chicken, rice and freshly cut fruit. All good, all delicate and fresh.
I will do a review of Johns Adventure on tripadvisor and publish the link here for all good things to say about the crew.

 

Now it is evening and time to relax. Tomorrow we will start trekking at 9, hopefully well rested.


1 Comment

To infinity and beyond – The trekking of Mt. Rinjani day 1

So we’ve been offline for a few days. No phone, no internet and no electricity. Here is what we’ve been doing:

Long before our departure from Norway was it decided that we wold trek Mt. Rinjani the second week of the tour. We looked up different companies that offer services for this. TripAdvisor was once more an
Important tool for deciding which one to choose. I read a lot of reviews and we fell down on John’s Adventure –rinjanimaster.com.
And it all started with the trip from Bali to Lombok…
We had made arrangement with John for pickup at the harbor where our boat came in, but things are not always on schedule in Indonesia. We had booked tickets for the 8:30 ferry from Padang Bai with pickup at Puri Santrian Hotel at 6:45. It’s an hour drive from the hotel to Padang Bai. When the clock was 7:00 we called the. Ferry Company about the pickup. “Right there. Only five minutes away”
Yeah, right!
We got picked up at 7:30, but we were not the only stop on the way. Four more people were to be picked up, and the driver had no idea about where the hotels where. We drove around and around and when we finally left Sanur area our boat left the harbor.
The drive, as I wrote , was to take one hour. We used a little more than two. So we had 20 minutes to get on the boat that left at 10:30. The boat ride was OK. Pretty new boat and we left on time. But the ride didn’t take 1:05 hours as described, it took a little over 2 houses. Do you begin to see the pattern?

The boys at Taluk Nare

The boys at Taluk Nare

The beginning

The beginning

We got ashore on Lombok at Taluk Nare. There we were to be picked up- 3 hours ago.
They guys at the harbor all offered their services but a call to John and pickup was again on the road to us. Since we were up early and had an early breakfast we were getting cranky and needed food, but there were no food stalls in sight. But making new friends is always positive. We ended up with the local guys who waited to attack the next batch of passengers coming ashore and ate with them. For NOK 4,- (0,50 €) we got a great meal of rice, noodles, chicken, sambal and veggies. It tasted great. And we waited. But we had great entertainment. We talked to the local guys about martial arts, Guns ‘n Roses, Steven Segal and prostitution (no money, no honey, no hanhu, no hehe) I think you all can guess the meaning of the last to phrases without seeing the faces on these guys. 😉
But John delivered and we got our transport to Senaru village.

We paid our dues to John and got a hotel room. Quite descent and spacious. And with hot water in the shower. A briefing on the next days adventure and off to bed.
Back up at 5:45 and taking a shower. Then we had pancakes 🙂 for breakfast. And the off with our guide Ahmman and our two porters Alex and the other guy. 🙂
We started our climb at 1100 meters and ended today’s trek on 2600 meters. It took us 6 hours and 20 minutes including the long lunch (close to 2 hours). And it was steep and dusty. Really really dusty. We are here in the dry season and they has not been rain for ages. It’s so dry we had dust all over our bodies. All openings and basically all skin.

Covered in dust

Covered in dust

Hole in the ground

Hole in the ground toilet

Right now we are chilling in chairs, sipping tea and eating fried bananas outside the tent and will soon be served dinner. The tent is up, sleeping bags laid out and we have bearly lifted a finger for this to happen. We even got ourselves a Privat toilet tent. Yup, hole in the ground toilet- with style. Hours in the gym with squats, lounges, dead lift and boxjump really paid off today!
We will turn in early as we will be woken at 2. We will start trekking again at 2:30 to reach the sunrise at 6:15 on the summit. We will climb 1100 more meters tomorrow.


1 Comment

Balinese culture

It’s hard to do a short post on Balinese culture, but I’m gonna try.
For a long long time ago the Hindus of Indonesia fled to Bali to avoid the rule of the Muslims. They brought with them (naturally) their customs and the Hindus and the local Balinese merges into one big happy religious family. That means that a lot of the local arts and dances is religiously connected. Balinese dance is widely know for its form. It is vibrant, colorful and unique.
(we have some videos of the local dancers and a little surprise for you as well. Right now the internet connection is to slow)
And most visual is maybe the offerings everybody put out. Small baskets containing avert thing form sweets, money, cigarets and flowers. These offerings are meant to please the nice spirits and keep at bay the bad ones.
It is not so much WHAT you offer, but the fact that you DO make an offer that counts. These offerings you will find in front of stores, restaurants and houses. All for receiving good fortune and prosperity.
And all people (Hindi) in Bali is connected to a shrine of some sort. It can by decided by your inheritance, workplace, geography or something else. To the shrine / temple you belong, hyou make offerings as well.

Last but not least is the thing called Karma. As we got it explained it can happen in three dimensions.
– instant Karma
you reap what you sow. Immediate and swift repay for your actions
– Tomorrow or the day before you die.
You don’t know which but it will happen one of these two days
– your bloodline
Your action reflects on your bloodline as well. So your kids have to carry your burden or reap your reward.
This is what keeps a lot of people pretty honest.
We can pretty much rule out that the Police (Polisi) are good Hindi, if we are to believe what we here around here.20140816-141338-51218561.jpg

20140816-141337-51217967.jpg


Leave a comment

Short update

We have now been off the grid for a few days. Several posts are written but not yet published. So look out for a rush of posts as soon as all pictures are sorted and text is proof read.

In the meanwhile, stay frosty. 🙉🙈🙊


Leave a comment

Mission accomplished

Like Ethan Hunt in Mission Impossible we got ourselves a mission today: Send back stuff we over packed! (Dad: Watch out it’s addressed to you. Will arrive in 2-3 months. /Katja).

So how do you move forward when this is to be done? We talked to the receptionist who said:” Nooooo, to faaar to goooooo. Take Taksiiiii!” Humph! As said, mission impossible. So we set out into the street and rented bicycles. The shopkeeper laughed at my size and tried me on what looked like a child’s bike. After some trying out I got one where the seat could be adjusted so I didn’t hit my knees in the handle bars every pedal of the way. With tires as flat as a newly ironed shirt, and fairly un-working brakes we got ripped off in the deal. But we had acquired the needed transportation for the mission.

We pedaled along the beach,

and found it strangely empty at 11 o’clock on a Saturday. Few people on the boardwalk worked out great for us with little to no breaks. We got side tracked on our mission. It’s shameful to admit, but we stopped for checking out tickets to Lombok for our trip there on Monday. As it turned out there where no empty seats on the boat, so the search for tickets was still on.

Not exactly Tour d'France

Not exactly Tour d’France

Pushing through 6 lines of traffic  is no joke here i Indonesia. There are actually some green and red men who supposedly should mark when it is safe to cross. Don’t trust the little green men! As some American states practice “Right on red” do the Indonesians practices something like “If I think I can make it, I take it”. Add to the fact that they drive on the left side of the road and you have many surprises from your blind side. We manned up and dove in, and got out again on the other side. Team KogA was still in play and closing in on the post office.

For finding something in today’s world we often rely on Google. This time, Google map. There is a neat thing in Google Maps 2.0 on iPhones. When you see a map on your phone, you can type in “OK Maps” in the search field and you will get the option for saving a local copy of the shown map. That is a life saver… if it works. I don’t know for what reason, but here it said “maps not available”. Anyhow; already cashed map works as well. So we kept the app open and used it as a guiding. The post office was not where google told us it would be, but refer to my last post on friendliness. People here are happy to help. So we found it. By a detour or two.

The process on the post office it self was quite easy, but Indonesians love receipts. Forms needs to bee filled out, and the don’t come in triplets but in layers as thick as a phone book. I lost the numbers of times the clerk stamped when we passed 6. But what a service. He actually sowed our packages in to protect it. By hand. No plastic wrappers here. Total amount came to 468 thousand Rupiahs which is to say about 250,- NOK.  We think it was somewhere between 4 and 5 kilos we sent back home. And we still have something that will not last long, but is not worth the fair of sending home.

Post office Selfie

Post office Selfie

From there we dove into traffic again, but found smaller roads with better with and lower heart rate. Back to the start, and handed back to bikes in the same condition, but with two sore buttocks.

 

 


Leave a comment

Friendliness

It’s getting into the afternoon here in Bali. Friday night is about to start and there is slightly more traffic than usual. Like everywhere else in the world. Some things never change.
We have booked us on a climb on Mt. Rinjani next week. Some 3750 meters is to be challenged and conquered. More on that later.

This post is written on a free wifi spot at Bali Galleria. A shopping mall where Katja is roaming free while I enjoy a deep chair and reasonably decent wifi. Everybody wins. But what I wanted to share today is the Balinese friendliness.
We are up and about around 6 in the morning for our training session. Be it running, yoga, tabata or intervals in the sand. This is the time the local community starts their day and we meet a lot of them. And everybody smile and greets you. A “hello”, “god morning” etc. are common amongst them. And as we venture a bit off the beaten path and moves in more residential areas we are greeted by smiling people coming out of house or on their scooters. And it all feels genuine. And it feels good!
Some of my American friends will think me strange to write this, but Europeans in general and Norwegian in particular do not act this way (except when meeting trekking in the mountains or on a boat on the fjords). I like it, and hope to be smiling as well- even though my face may be contorted into something strange at the end of my tenth interval. Good thing there are no mirrors out there.

Even the boats smiles in Bali

Even the boats smiles in Bali


Leave a comment

Dive master Katja

Third day of diving is a charm. Katja got another instructor and got down to 4 meter for about 5 minutes. That is way deeper and way longer that we thought would happen just a day or two since. Hazim was a great instructor and after getting Katja under water for a few minutes he was my diving buddy for 2 more dives. It is just great to dive with locals who know so much about the flora and fauna, as well as the specifics of the dive site you’re on. We dived on a wreck, and saw a submarine who is used as a tourist attraction. It runs a round under water so non-divers can get down and see the corals and all the fish.

I have written a review of Bali Diving for TripAdvisor, and highly recommend them to anyone who are to dive out of Sanur.

This morning we have done 30 min run and 80 min yoga. It’s time for breakfast. 🙂

 


Leave a comment

To dive or not to dive?

As stated in yesterdays post, Katja tried diving on Monday, and didn’t quite like it. She went out with the group today for diving in the ocean. Conclusion is clear: Katja will not be diving. Me on the other had got to brush off a lot of layers of dust on my diving skills. I had to great dives at Padang Bai, more specific in Bloo Lagoon. This reminded me of why I liked it in the first place. But the fact is that the water held 30 degrees, the fish are alive with colors, there were squids, anemones, and a lot of fish for which I don’t know the name. Back home in Norway (the Oslo fjord) is grey, 2 meters visibility and normally quite low temperature. (I know my diving-religious friends will mock me for this) But i find the local Balinese standards to suite my needs in the best possible way.

I took some video today, but as stated, the internet connection in this place is purely for text based upload, with the occasional picture.

These days a lot of things are happening, and therefor there are lots of things to blog about. I do not know if we will keep up with this level of publishing when we get to places where we train, eat and sleep. Time will show.

No dive for me One happy diver A view from the dive boat